The Complete Guide to Lost-Wax Casting

What is Lost-Wax Casting?

Lost-wax casting (also called "cire perdue") is a 6,000-year-old metalworking technique that remains the gold standard for creating custom jewelry. The process involves creating a wax model of your piece, encasing it in plite (investment), burning out the wax, and pouring molten metal into the resulting cavity.

This technique allows for incredible detail and is used to create everything from simple bands to intricate statement pieces with stones.

The 7-Step Lost-Wax Casting Process

1. Design & CAD Modeling

Every piece starts with a vision. Modern jewelers use CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software like Rhino or MatrixGold to create precise 3D models. This digital blueprint ensures perfect proportions and allows clients to visualize their piece before any metal is cast.

For organic, one-of-a-kind pieces, hand carving in wax remains a respected art form.

2. Wax Model Creation

From the CAD file, a wax model is produced using either:

• 3D printing (resin or castable wax)
• CNC milling from wax blocks
• Hand carving by master craftsmen

The wax model is an exact replica of the final piece. Any imperfections in the wax will transfer to the metal.

3. Sprueing

The wax model is attached to a wax "tree" using sprues - channels that will allow molten metal to flow into the mold. Proper sprue placement is critical for successful casting.

4. Investment (Mold Making)

The wax tree is placed in a steel flask and surrounded by investment plaster - a gypsum-based material that can withstand extreme heat. The investment captures every microscopic detail of the wax.

5. Burnout

The flask is placed in a kiln and heated to 1300°F (700°C). The wax melts and burns away completely - hence "lost wax" - leaving a perfect negative cavity in the investment.

6. Casting

Molten metal (gold, silver, platinum, or bronze) is forced into the cavity using either:

• Centrifugal casting - spinning force drives metal into the mold
• Vacuum casting - negative pressure pulls metal into every detail
• Pressure casting - positive pressure for dense, porosity-free results

The metal is heated to approximately:

• Gold: 1945°F (1063°C)
• Silver: 1761°F (961°C)
• Platinum: 3215°F (1768°C)

7. Finishing

Once cooled, the investment is broken away to reveal the raw casting. The piece then goes through:

• Cutting from the tree
• Filing and sanding
• Pre-polishing
• Stone setting (if applicable)
• Final polishing
• Quality inspection

Why Lost-Wax for Custom Jewelry?

Precision: CAD-to-cast workflow ensures exact dimensions for perfect stone fits.

Complexity: Undercuts, hollow forms, and intricate details impossible with other methods.

Material efficiency: Minimal metal waste compared to fabrication.

Repeatability: One master can produce unlimited identical pieces.

Quality: Dense, porosity-free castings suitable for everyday wear.

What Can Be Cast?

Almost any jewelry design is possible:

• Engagement and wedding rings
• Statement rings
• Pendants and charms
• Bracelets and bangles
• Chains and links
• Earrings
• Belt buckles
• Custom sculptures

Cost Factors

Lost-wax casting pricing depends on:

1. Metal weight - Gold is priced by the gram
2. Design complexity - Intricate CAD work takes time
3. Stone setting - Labor for setting diamonds/gems
4. Finishing level - Mirror polish vs matte vs textured
5. Rush timeline - Standard is 2-3 weeks

Getting Started with Custom Casting

Ready to create your own piece? The process typically follows:

1. Consultation - Share your vision, references, and budget
2. Design - Receive CAD renders for approval
3. Production - Casting and finishing (2-3 weeks)
4. Delivery - Quality inspection and shipping

Whether you have a complete design or just an idea, experienced casters can bring your vision to life in precious metal.

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